Wine

Wine

I used to have to pretend a great enthusiasm for wine. I had to tout the merits of one over another for many years, attending wine seminars and secretly not smelling the saffron and mango accents so enthusiastically noted by the Veuve Cliquot representative with the helmet of sprayed hair and flowing mumu. Like unsteady pharmaceutical touts, the vineyard salespeople toured the finer resorts and dining establishments, leather cases stocked with libations in hand like so many tanned Willy Lomans. Before I became a restaurant manager, I often had to work evening shifts after wine tastings, cause for rousing mayhem among the front staff which took place immediately upon closure of the kitchen doors. We would create odd dishes for one another’s “enjoyment,” juggle vegetables, make out in the break room, and pretend to nearly drop enormous platters of high end dishes, sending the chefs into near seizures.

In the Huunsruck one summer with my best friend, we took a driving trip along the idyllic Mosel River. We were heading to Frankfurt where we would park our car and take a train through France and Spain. We stopped at a small winery in a gingerbread village, little more than a stone house really, on the banks of the rushing green river. An impossibly lively old man in a jaunty felt beret greeted us and we indicated an interest in his wine cellar mostly through pantomime. We followed him down smooth, damp stone stairs to his cellar. No skulls bedecked the walls and he hadn’t said anything resembling “amontillado” so I felt safe. We sat at a small wooden table lit softly by the morning sun shining through dusty windows. And out came the bottles – six of them.

German wine bottles are tall and graceful, their curves more elegant and aggressive than French or Spanish wines. Labels are heavy on the fleur de lis and rich, ancient fonts intertwined with foliage. He poured us both a half glass of an obscure Libframilch and sat back in his chair, a smile wrinkling his kind face. He then poured himself a glass. German wine (gewurtztraminer is my favorite) are cheap, sweet,  and bold. They are not the favorites of gourmet magazines, and are generally considered overwhelming for most delicate palates.  I love them all the more for all of this.

We lost track of time as the morning sun dappled into an afternoon slant. We had sampled ten of his lovely, sweet wines and stowed six newly-purchased bottles in the boot.

Some weeks later in the remote countryside along the cote-d-azur we rolled into another winery, its impeccable grounds smelling of red earth and honeysuckle. We joined a group of tourists in straw hats and entered the “tasting room.” Its décor was stark and industrial, and it smelled of oak. No proprietor was on the premises, but attractive young Frenchmen in white came around with bottles of a chenin blanc which might’ve tasted much better had he poured more than an ounce.  I know, this is an appropriate amount for tasting. The tourists swirled and dipped their noses, tilted back their heads and remarked on the delicate aroma of, what could that be, pinecone? I “tasted” the disdain on the French pharm reps (er wine reps) faces, the Disneyfication of the entire process, and felt just how artificial this experience was.  We walked away from the winery empty-handed, knowing we would cork a bottle of Mosel Reisling as soon as we arrived in Nice.

Posted in Diet | Tagged , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Chela

Another one of my former students became a murderer. Her name is Marisela “Chela” Romero, and she shot Rene Carrillo in the head during a weekend camping trip on Mount Lemmon. She has been charged with second degree murder and is currently free on bail.

I heard the news as I usually do, while scrambling to dress, accommodate dog needs, make lunch, and gather strewn papers and other school accoutrements while KOLD anchors expound in the background, often competing with Skinny Puppy or Primus to provide a risque underbeat to the morning. I stopped in my pink towel and actually looked at the TV. There she was, Chela, in one of those gray sweatshirts that makes freshly-caught criminals appear to have been apprehended while jogging around Reid Park on a cool winter morning. Her face, though, was blank. I couldn’t be certain it was her, my Chela, the one who had recovered from a violent auto accident in Hermosillo which had destroyed her vanity but spared her life. The one who had come into my class four years ago in a wheel chair and a heavy jaw set in determination. She wrote about the accident, and proudly showed me  Xrays of the enormous rods and pins in her legs. Eventually, she progressed from a wheelchair to a walker. Friends carried her backpack, and she made her way down the hall swinging awkwardly from side to side but with that same set jaw and blazing dark eyes.

Chela always sat in the front row. She struggled to complete her work, and eventually the walker gave way to crutches. She was no longer my student, but would still ask me to read what she had written and showed me fresh scars from the removal of the metal that had been in her body for years. The crutches finally went away, and she walked like a child, slowly, ploddingly, with feet robbed of feminine grace. She tried out for the softball team, and made the roster. She worked to overcome the legs which would not obey her, and her fierce swing earned her accolades and a write-up in the Daily Star.

On graduation night last year, I watched her walk onstage with her black robe billowing in the cool spring breeze. She wore heels, and carefully planted her feet, eyes blazing. My eyes fought back those awkward tears that arrive unsolicited as the image of her hallway determination and progress came to mind. Her future, I imagined, was bright as those blazing eyes.

Then the gray sweatsuit, the blank stare. Rene Carillo, apparently, had awakened her in the middle of the night in her tent. He was a jokester, a class clown. She had awakened angry. He had teased her about this anger, had asked her, “Well why don’t you shoot me then?” He had apparently handed her a gun. Unthinkably, unimaginably, she had pulled the trigger. She then fled into the forest, where police had found her hours after Rene’s lifeless body was flown off of the mountain.

I have always believed we are all capable of killing. It is the circumstances under which we carry out this barbaric act that divide us into those who will rot in jail and those who will don medals of valor.  It is difficult to think about Chela fondly, as I am surrounded by friends and family of the young man who perished at her hands, injured loved ones who are justifiably angry, who attended his wake and funeral, and who never saw her blazing eyes and determination to walk and wear teenage girl clothes and carry her books by herself.  It is difficult, Chela, to see you in that gray sweatsuit.

Posted in Diet | Tagged , , , | 3 Comments

The Club

 

One snowy December night in the late 80s in the college town of Carbondale, Illinois The Club burned to the ground. We stood and watched the flames and smoke mingling furiously with our own misty, damp breath, huddling together in cashmere greatcoats, afraid. I stood next to Ralph, who had lived a comfortable college-stud bachelor existence upstairs until approximately one hour before. He cradled his calm beagle pup, Stella, in his arms and smoked and steamed, the flames reflected in his eyes.

“You can stay with us,” I said, looking straight into the flames, breathing the vapor of red vinyl barstools, oak, asbestos, musician stories.

“It was Bob, wasn’t it,” said Ralph. It was not a question. The Treasury Department would do an investigation, but we all knew Bob, the owner, had gone through a costly divorce. He needed the insurance money. We all loved him.

My girlfriends Laura, Rochelle, and I worked together as bartenders, and foolishly lived together as well. I say foolishly because when your place of employment goes up in smoke, all are thrown out of work  en masse, creating a hardship for collective bill paying. We had heretofore relied on one another, but none of us were trust fund babies. After the fire, the government milk and cheese program provided us with enormous, wobbly blocks of viscous yellow matter and label-less gallons of bluish milk. It is the only time I received government assistance, and it taught me that those who dole out noblesse oblige purposely begrudged its recipient any semblance of taste or refinement.

The next night, Laura and I, in parkas and under cover of snow and darkness, made a midnight foray into the burnt-out cooler pulling a Kroger shopping cart. Our keys to the back door of The Club still worked.  The door, black, brittle and enormous, still opened. The place reeked of burnt, wet wood and fetid smoke. The interior had been completely gutted – ceiling beams collapsed onto the bar, tables smashed to bits, someone’s bass drum collapsed  like a marshmallow. However, the storage room, lined with bottles, had been protected like Fort Knox. Flames had  only licked and teased the stolid bottles, turning each charcoal black, some with psychedelic designs. However, the liquor itself, upon our expert inspection, was still good. That weekend we hosted a Burn Baby Burn Party to raise money for rent using the salvaged liquor from the Club. Even with labels burnt off, brands were easily identifiable – Tanqueray’s squarish tilt, Gray Goose’s distinctive neck, and Jack Daniel’s masculine thrust were all familiar shapes to us. The well-attended benefit soireee earned us enough to keep us flush in our two-story frame house until the end of the semester.

Southern Illinois University in Carbondale was a college town better known for its Halloween parties, which had been emceed by an edgy David Letterman, than academics. The Club was a popular watering hole for bikers, punks, and art students.  The other bartenders and I split our time between the bar and campus, pedaling our beach cruisers along the streets inhabited by actual townies punctuated only occasionally by a lawn couch, a college neighborhood staple. I was an anachronistic choice for bartender, as I am neither flirtatious nor especially outgoing. My favorite conversation topics lean toward literature, philosophy, and ethics, not sports, cars, and drama. I guess I had the look that The Club was going for, though (retro chic/punk) and the assertive nature to break up bar fights with little ado. Bartending pays relatively well, considering the short hours and negligible cost to one’s physical or mental well-being. The owner who hired me never even asked my age, and I began tending bar long before I myself was legally able to drink. This did not strike me as unusual as I waltzed in each night, a bold 19 year old weaving through a long line of students being carded by our enormous, laconic bouncer.

The Club was where the scene kids went to be seen, draping themselves over the bar with nonchalant affectation, eyes and lips heavily outlined in black. It was too hip for its own good, and the kids who thought that because I tended bar there that I must be automatically off the richter scale hip would have been disappointed if they knew just how much I read. At 9:00 pm the bands came in to set up their equipment near a stuffy little corner stage by the walk-in cooler. Some of these bands drew enormous crowds at big regional venues, and some were even national acts. Tall Paul, Michael Stipe, and some of the musicians from Depeche Mode would stop in to jam.  Rockabilly, punk, blues, metal. I was often too busy pouring drinks to even notice when a big name was playing. I knew by the reverent reaction of the crowd at the bar when someone of note had stepped onto the stage.  All of the musicians seemed unusually lank and tall, strolling heavily through the back door in their leather boots, carrying black cases, amps, guitars, soundboards. The cases were often thick with stickers from what to me seemed exotic venues where Lightening Hopkins or Joey Stripes had played.  The name of the band was usually emblazoned on the drum kit at the very least, and engraved on the heavy black cases if they had been together a while. I came to know the drinking habits of many musicians, and was told which kind of booze and how much to serve some so that they could be relied upon to play well or at all. Their groupies were a fascinating lot: spiky bleached hair to go with pleather bustiers, wafting into The Club in a mist of pot smoke and patchouli. I never got involved in their drama, although I provided a captive audience for many twitchy-faced rockers who felt compelled to tell me about their latest escapades in what should have been embarrassing detail.  To this day, old rockers make me sad. It’s as though they never emerged from a quagmire that strangled the dreams of many bar patrons before my eyes.

Musicians were allowed to drink free as part of their pay, and some abused this privilege more than others.  The owner told me who to cut off and when, and I made every effort to do this quietly like a teacher dishing out hall discipline so that the musicians were not embarrassed. Some were obviously beyond alcohol in their addictions;  other destructive preferences included  heroin, cocaine, and college girls, all of which tied up the tiny bathrooms for hours. I was the voice of reason for many of these guys, and felt uncomfortable running into them outside of my job.  My friends envied me, especially the musician-addicted girls who went weak-kneed during guitar solos.  I did not understand their idol worship, as I knew how most of the rockers, even the successful ones, lived.

The crowd varied greatly from day to night. On weekends I sometimes worked during the day. The daytime regulars included Aaron, a thirtyish Chicago expatriate who was as thin and pale as Edgar Winter who harbored vague and dismally failed ambitions. Aaron needed to drink, and would often be my first patron as soon as I unlocked the door, his hands shaking as he sipped his first beer. We sometimes played chess, me leaning across the beer cooler to move a piece, Aaron with his elbows on the polished wooden bar. He would study the board intently as I served up cold pitchers to lunchtime drinkers and bikers in heavy, pungent leather jackets and  sweat-stiffened doo-rags. Aaron would look neither left nor right as businessmen in suits ordered from me on either side of him. I think they reminded him of his position in life as a perma student, a stunted son who would never graduate and was not wanted back home in Chicago. I always noticed the hope in his eyes as a young girl walked in oblivious to this, one who would perhaps be vulnerable to his intelligence and charm and not smell his failure.

Clusters of bikers came in loudly around happy hour, sunburned and windblown. Many of them were decent people, although every bartender in the place knew which ones to keep an eye on as the booze swelled their macho. Some became violent, others verbally abusive. Some wore “colors” which were banned- Hell’s Angels, Satan’s Slaves, Vigilantes. One of my favorites was a huge, bear-like man named Ted. I had heard that he had been in an accident and was hospitalized, but was unprepared when he came in on crutches, missing his left leg above the knee. I tried not to register my shock as I drew him a beer from the tap. He sat on his usual barstool and looked at me. He told me at great length about the accident; he had been going too fast around a curve. “Yeah, when I landed my leg was backward.  They tried to save it but it got infected,” he said, drinking gratefully, adam’s apple bobbing up and down.

“Wow, I’m sorry Ted. Are you okay?” I asked, wiping the bar in front of him.

“There’s nothing I can do about it. Do you want to see me move my leg?” he asked. Before I could think about an answer, he sat his stump on the barstool next to him. It’s hard to take one’s eyes off of something like that.  The stump fluttered when he “moved” his ghost of a leg. I could see little nerves dancing at the end of the thick stump.  By this time he had attracted a crowd for which I was grateful, as I could not laugh or guffaw in amazement as they were doing. I was silent, racked with pity for him. I had occasionally taken rides with several friends on bikes, but after that I stopped.

By last call, the heavy rubber mats behind the bar were soaking in beer. I felt as if I were walking on a raft in the middle of a frothy ocean. The bar itself was sticky with booze and the patrons became loud and prophetic. My arms were hot and red from washing glasses and I returned steaming stacks of them to their places along the back wall. Roger, a nearly-toothless black man who could’ve been 30 or 60, cleaned the place each night. He came in at last call. I drew him his beer and he set about wiping the tables and putting up the chairs. I am not sure, but I think that Bob paid him only in beer.  I avoided standing directly in front of him as he spit when he talked because he was missing his front teeth. He had one eye that turned inward. I appreciated that Bob kept him “employed.” I knew he had a wife and children. I wondered at the sort of love they shared.  It was hard to imagine how and where they lived, so I didn’t even try.

After we restocked the coolers and locked the doors, it was our time to play. We often drove out to a roadhouse in the country called Midlands which was open until 4:00 am. Sitting on the “right” side of the bar felt liberating. I have been on the right side ever since.

Posted in Diet | Tagged | Leave a comment

Ipanema

I befriended a 10-year-old boy in Rio one summer. Rio was our last stop before returning to the states, and we had a little over a week to explore the city.  Our neat little hotel was close to Ipanema and even though it was posh by downtown Rio standards, it smelled less like raw sewage. We rode city buses to the zoo, to the dizzying heights of Mount Corcorvado, and to the museums of modern art. The overcrowded buses skirted the favellas, but I saw them through the windows, climbing Frankenstein streets like veins emptying into haphazard shantytowns. The favellas looked like massive hives made by drunken bees grabbing desperately to precipitous hillsides: plyboard and tin, one seemingly stacked on top of another, and there were millions of them.  The topmost of these were enveloped in a yellow haze of heat, flies, and airborne garbage. In the city itself, many of Rio’s indigent simply lived in cardboard boxes. Entire families slept in these moldy boxes, often outside of restaurants in the hopes of scavenging food from departing patrons. I gave these “stick people” as John called them, little bags of French fries, the bun from my burger, or even ketchup packets. John called the box dwellers “stick people” not only because they were usually emaciated, but also because one of them, a large-kneed black boy defending the honor of his sister who had been spotted talking to John, had actually chased him with a stick. Far above street level, 20 stories above the ground, the noise from private helicopters lifting off of the rooftops of swanky whitewashed apartment buildings competed with the screaming sirens below. The wealthy commuted this way, from rooftop to rooftop, safely untroubled by the stench and mayhem below.

Ivan had approached our café table under its bright Cinzano umbrella one sun-soaked afternoon on Ipanema. Even though he quickly realized that we would not be easy marks for trinket vending, he stuck around to practice English. He wore clothes that were too small, but I knew that his polished little hustle would take him far here, at least as far as it was possible for a favella kid to go. I saw him every morning digging through trashcans as I headed to the beach.

One evening we sat under our umbrella watching the purple clouds scud across the sky sipping cocktails as scantily-clad kids played  beach volleyball nearby. Ivan sat in his usual chair. “Those kids down the beach chased me with sticks last night,” said John.

“You must leave the beach by 10:00 pm,” said Ivan. “It is not safe after that.”

I had noticed that all of the tourists picked up stakes and retreated into exclusive condos or restaurants before this time. Ipanema was deserted by 10:30pm nightly. While I was far from fluent in Portuguese, I had gleaned enough from the newspaper to understand why. Photos of execution-style murders were common in the tabloid rags that passed for newspapers here, and a constant barrage of sirens shattered the air every night.

As it was already 9:45. I gathered my things. “I want another beer,” said David.

“You heard Ivan,” I said. “We’re going.” John and David laughed and seemed to sit deeper in their chairs. “Good night,” said John.

As he did every night we were there, Ivan walked me back to our hotel. I had at first been reticent about this, but he was so enthusiastic about trying new words in English that we built a nascent trust. He seemed to proud to be my little Boy Friday, puffing his chest as his five-foot frame pimp-walked next to the leggy blonde. I could not wrap my tongue around the Portuguese accent and he laughed in a disarmingly childlike way at my attempts to order food and ask directions. His laughter was incongruous because he seemed more like 20 than 10.

My sleep was interrupted by staccato banging at the hotel door that came from a strong fist. Maybe John and David had forgotten their keys. The hotel had security, of course. I was not worried about anyone coming in from the street. I jumped out of bed in my nightgown and opened the door. My heart skipped when two men in black clothes with slick oily hair looked at me from the bright hallway. One had on his sunglasses. Both had enormous shoulders that strained their jackets. The leader had a ponytail.

“We are police. We have your friends,” said the shorter one.

“What?”

The leader quickly flashed what looked like a dime store badge. My dreams fled and my nightgown suddenly felt too short and flimsy. These men were not like any police I had ever seen. They looked more like cheap pimps, but the big one opened his jacket enough for me to see his holstered AK47. They were now whatever they wanted to be.

“Where are they?” I asked. “What did they do?”

“We caught them with cocaine on the beach,” said the leader. My head spun. I remembered Midnight Express, knew how third world countries treated drug offenders. I also knew that neither David nor John touched drugs.  They were both veteran travelers who had been warned , though.  Ivan had warned us all.

“I want to see them,” I said. They remained in the hall while I dressed quickly. We took the elevator downstairs and walked out to the street where a long black sedan was parked. Its windows were tinted, but it was not a police vehicle. The ponytailed “officer” opened the back door. John and David were sitting in the back seat, handcuffed.  Both appeared ashen. “Saba, give them what they want,” said John, his face pale. David, true to form, was simply angry. “These fucking idiots set us up,” he said. “A kid ran up to John and put something in his shirt pocket. Before he even saw what it was, these guys were on us. They’re not police.” John’s face, though, was discolored along the jaw. “Give them what they want,” he repeated. “I don’t know what will happen.” The door slammed shut.

“We can take them to the police station, or release them for a fee,” said the ponytail. “How much money do you have?” I knew where David kept the cash. I was shaken, scared, and desperate. “I don’t know, maybe $500,” I said. David would later attack me for this. I should have lied, given a smaller amount. The men had escorted me back upstairs, and had entered the room with me. They had guns and I felt threatened. They could have easily found the money themselves, and I didn’t want them tearing though our things. David’s anger at me for what he considered my lack of savvy drove a wedge between us that never totally healed.

The front desk clerk even looked suspicious to me now, and I suspected he would get his cut. My hands were shaking as I produced the cash. I wanted them freed before I handed it over, and out on the street the larger of the two helped them out of the vehicle and unlocked the handcuffs. The “officers” got into the car and quickly drove off, leaving us on the street, seeming small and naïve. As they rubbed their wrists, I noticed Ivan across the street leaning on a telephone pole, a smile far beyond his years crawling across his brown face.

Posted in Diet | Tagged , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Skulls

 

 In the early 90s, I flew down to Belize not only to dive but also to immerse myself in what I expected would be a unique culture in Central America because Belize is a British protectorate nestled among Spanish-speaking countries that are more prone to poverty and less likely to serve peas and toast. I had been riveted by Jacques Cousteau’s Belizean diving adventures and wondered at the mythical “blue hole.”  However, on this sunny morning I was heading to a remote beach to snorkel. One of the greatest pleasures of the cayes is walking barefoot, toes deep in the soft sand of a silent jungle road canopied by vaulting palm trees. Having nearly been consumed by Dennis’s jaguar the day before, I padded quietly past his white frame house where the enormous feline slept warily on top of an old washing machine on the screened porch. I had found out the previous evening that the big cat was not, in fact, inviting me to come in and be his human friend. No, the fire in those eyes was not a longing for companionship, but simple meat hunger.  The two red dents resembling a vampire bite on the side of my neck to proved it. The previous afternoon, Dennis  had yelled “Hit him in the head” when the jaguar had stood up and put his huge paws on my shoulders, heavy and strong, and proceeded to put his mouth around my neck. He was not going to nestle against me affectionately after all. I had hoped, in my Animal Planet naivete, to stroke his spotted fur and make him purr. No, he wanted to eat me, a compliment I am sure on some primal level. I instinctively interposed my fingers between his canines and my jugular vein. They felt like slabs of hot ivory and pressed against my neck with crushing power while Dennis yelled “Hit him in the head now!”  I did – smacking the butt of my hand square between his eyes. He lurched back on all fours just long enough for me to retreat out of the screened porch. Dennis locked the door.  “I’m sorry, mate,” he mumbled. I later discovered that the jaguar had mauled others on the island and realized that Dennis, like many other island dwellers I’ve met, suffers from “island fever” and would be certifiable anywhere else.

On the far eastern end of the island, a construction company was denuding the palm forest to build what the sign claimed would be a five-star resort, it’s sleek balconies already populated by little cartoon tourists. Chugging, beeping backhoes sliced into the morning calm to make way for progress. Next to the white sand road were a series of mesh trash bins where the crew was disposing of construction detritus. Something caught my eye in one of them – in fact, eyes caught my eye. I squatted next to the bin and stared into the empty eye sockets of a human skull. Several skulls, in fact, were buried beneath cardboard, plastic water bottles, and chunks of concrete. I dug two of them out of the dusty trash and set them on the sand in front of me. One was missing its lower jaw. Both skulls had sloping, flattened foreheads which I knew was the Maya ideal of beauty, achieved by binding children’s heads with cloth. One had filed teeth, a painful process undergone by Mayan warriors to appear fierce.  I could not leave them here to be shipped out with tourist trash. The teenage construction foreman shrugged and waved when I held them up, so I carefully wrapped them in a towel and placed them in my rucksack. My boyfriend was not happy to have them in our condo, so I placed them out on the deck so that they could see the night sky again, stargazing lovers side by side. Maybe Dennis was not the only one with island fever.

When our departure date neared, I was unwilling to part with the Mayan duo for whom I had now imagined an entire life lived thousands of years ago on Ambergris – canoeing to the coast to participate in huge ceremonies at the Jaguar Pyramid in Tikal, the couple had fallen in love as children. His name was Coatl, and hers was Lalopek. He hunted sea turtles and she prepared mango salad, hoping that he would not be caught in a storm on the way home as had so many of the husbands of her kinswomen.  I bubble-wrapped the two and placed them carefully in my Dana backpack. We landed in Miami on a Sunday afternoon in August. A Mormon missionary had been sitting next to me, regaling me with stories of her community achievements in Banana Bank with the native heathens. We had been given customs forms, and I had dutifully written “skulls” under items I was bringing from Belize. The customs agents surrounded me as we deplaned, taking my bag and marching me into a room with a table. Others were led into this room as well, including the Canadian woman. “I notice that you are bringing back skulls,” noted a beefy, red-faced agent. “What kind of skulls are these?” I placed my rucksack on a large metal table and removed Coatl and Lolopek. I unwrapped them slowly. I heard the Canadian woman gasp in shock. Other customs agents gathered, and the beefy one called his supervisor. An interview followed. I had no fear of being detained;  Belize is sadly bereft of laws protecting culture, I knew. NAGPRA protected native tribes in the States, but such laws did not exist there. The skulls would have been destroyed in a callous manner.  I was an anthropology student. All of this was true, but I still felt like a dastardly villain there at the Miami customs station.  After a long consultation, the supervisor told me to re-pack Coatl and Lalopek. Those who had been friendly to me on the flight now gave me a wide berth as if I were in infectious leper. Coatl and Lalopek now rest together in a sacred site, side by side and looking up at the stars.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted in Diet | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

Hot

June 9 HOT
Students these days love to refer to young girls as “hot.” Hot flashes, Arizona sun, sweating in bed. It is a nefarious practice of mine during the summer if I am not traveling to “crash” the pools at local resorts. My friends and I, beach bags in hand, enjoy this undercover underdressed pastime. My favorite escape, like so many other Tucsonans, is Rocky Point. Some of the hottest places I’ve been: New Orleans gives a new name to “muggy,” Rio is a fly-ridden maw of hell, and Lipari, Sicily with its sizzling volcanic sand lent new epithets to HOT. On an epic South American adventure, my boyfriend and I, along with our close friend John, explored 10 countries.

Lima, Peru was hot in an unparalleled fashion. A few days before we were to leave the Peruvian capital in the summer of 1991, the leader of the notorious Shining Path, Roberto Guzman, had been captured in a violent raid on his Amazon stronghold. The Shining Path was a communist rebel group whose M.O. was to place homemade bombs in government buildings and tally up an impressive list of political assassinations and kidnappings. With Guzman in custody, the countryside descended into turmoil. The train to Macchu Picchu was discontinued for safety reasons, so we did not linger long in Lima as. The photos I took there: cordons of masked military men with raised AK47s, women in bright skirts, children selling candy on the steps of elaborate Iglesias. We booked a flight into La Paz, Bolivia and enjoyed Lima’s nervous ambience for only a couple of days. The morning of our departing flight, we were all a bit yellow-faced from imbibing in too many pisco sours, the beverage of choice in Peru which we had felt obligated to sample. We walked onto the tarmac carrying our backpacks and stared dubiously at the plane, a dilapidated-looking DC10 with peeling paint. We climbed the rickety portable stairs and seated ourselves, as there had been no seat assignments in the terminal. As I sat down, my armrest fell off in a cloud of dust. A few campesinos in bright clothing were scattered throughout the plane. One elderly woman had a box with holes on her lap that held a chicken. The threadbare curtain between the cockpit and “business class” waved gently in the hot breeze. As the pilots engaged and revved the engines, a high-pitched whine that sounded like failing brakes shocked us. John shuffled a deck of cards nervously. David had already curled up across three seats, but even he perked up in alarm. The plane taxied reluctantly down the runway, gaining speed . Out the dusty window I observed a cadaverous graveyard of cannibalized Russian planes – rusty fuselages gaping in the sun, tangled engines lying cockeyed next to the runway like so many blown tires along a highway. We gained speed. I could see the craggy peaks of the Andes before us like sentinels. The plane lurched from the ground with another bang, and we were airborn. The only sound was the shuffling of the cards. We all stared out the window at the plane lunged and strained to gain altitude. I could now make out deep canyons and individual trees. In the cockpit, lights flashed in warning and the pilots’ actions became frantic. Straining to look up through my tiny window, I could no longer see the top of the Andes, only a sheer rock face. The plane banked so steeply that newspapers wafted in odd directions in among the seats. The G-force of the turn took my breath away. John’s eyes were closed. David’s head was between his knees. With no armrest to grip, I held onto his arm and watched as the rock face was replaced by a dizzy sky. The plane had turned around completely and we were approaching the runway. The landing gear dropped with a cacophonous squeal and we were again in Lima. The pilots made no announcement. The campesinos scattered throughout the plane did not react as if this were unusual. John’s face was ghastly. Before ten minutes had passed, we took another run at it. We successfully crossed the Andes this time and landed a couple of hours later in La Paz, which boasted the distinction of being the highest-altitude capital city in the world at 13,000 feet.
Ah, flying stories. We all have them. The Lima flight paled in comparison to the incident from Culebra to Vieques, both islands off the coast of Puerto Rico. My companion in Puerto Rico was my best friend Tracey, an air traffic controller who I have known since childhood. We had been diving in Culebra and decided to catch a 15-minute morning hop to Vieques, a small island known for clear water, a luminescent lagoon, and great diving despite persistent rumors of undetonated bombs left over from naval operations. The sky was clear when we walked into the tiny airport in Culebra. Our plane had only four seats behind the miniscule cockpit, blue and comfortable. We settled in with our day packs and the propellers sputtered into action. As often happens during the monsoon season, a mass of dark clouds had by this time jumbled on the horizon, then directly overhead. The staccato radio voice warned of a dangerous storm. The pilot was a large man with incredibly thick and hairy forearms. The co-pilot looked to be a teenager, his light blue shirt gaping at the neck. As the Cessna lifted off over a tangle of frangipani trees, the radio static became more emphatic. The treetops heavy with mangos were the last vision before we entered a bank of electric clouds with a thud. The tiny plane took an insulting shock and visibility was now zero. I could see sheets of water flowing horizontally along the plane body and blinding, quick bolts of lightning that illuminated deeper, twisted cloud banks. White and dark mist flew by my window like a strobe light. It was always disconcerting to watch Tracey, an aviation expert who knew more than anyone the dangers of such a small plane in this weather, put her head between her knees. The plane dropped and rose like a butterfly in a windstorm. The co-pilot spoke rapidly into his headphone, trying to navigate. The fifteen-minute flight had already turned into a half hour and I realized that the pilots had no idea where we were. The pilots spoke sharply at one another, mostly directions “Izquierda,” “derecha,” and numbers, and “bajo.” We were trying to fly under the storm for some reason. The altimeter vacillated wildly. I could see the back of Tracey’s neck. Finally the co-pilot shouted “A la izquierda! A la izquierda!” and we banked to the left, the right wing almost completely vertical. Nothing but blackness and flashes of light through the front window. As quickly as it had started, we popped out beneath the storm clouds not 40 feet over a clear, calm runway. Ah, hot.

Posted in education | Tagged , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Taking Your Medicine

When I was seven, I dared my naïve neighbor, Paul Lumbsten, to stick a pink pencil eraser up his nose.  He not only did so, but had to have it removed at the doctor’s office. It had lodged somewhere up in his sinuses. His mother, a large, tan woman whose house always smelled of Pine, was thereafter understandably reluctant to allow her only child, a shy, small boy, to play with me. I often skipped his house and would play with Barb and Cindy who lived on the other side. Paul came over every day, regardless of what I had done, standing at the screen door on Saturday mornings as I stared at the test pattern awaiting Josie and the Pussycats.  The test pattern looked like a target and was accompanied by a high pitched noise, but to this day I have no idea what was being tested.  Paul stood there at the door, a silent towheaded shadow not much taller than the lower screen. He would never knock. He just stood there on the porch for a long time, hoping to get my attention. Mom used to urge compassion for Paul. She shot me a sideways look as she went to open the door. I held a bowl of Kapn Krunch and couldn’t be bothered. Mom invited him into the kitchen and I had been defeated, as I knew whatever I would do that morning must now include Paul. Sometimes we would walk down to the Stop-n-Go and buy wax lips, candy cigarettes and Paydays. One day sat in the garage and made “rose petal perfume” by putting petals in plastic cups full of water. We sold these at an impromptu yard sale and became disproportionately puffed up with entrepreneurial moxy, bragging at Westview grade school about the hundreds we had made.  “The blob” was one of our favorites. The movie had swept the nation and we had seen it at the drive-in, so we replicated the setup as  best we could in Paul’s basement, zipping ourselves into sleeping bags with flashlights and rolling around making growling monster noises and trying to smash smiling, faux terrified kids. We had Koolade smiles. The day’s flavor was apparent from the lime green mustache, the exaggerated cherry lips, and the grape teeth.  Removing the rose-tinted glasses, a more focused picture emerges. In the winter, Paul made a snow fort. He must’ve awakened early and bundled himself up to enjoy the stillness after a deep December snow. The fort must’ve taken him hours to make. He was still carefully packing and scraping when I came outside. Memory is tricky, and I doubt Paul’s fort was truly as impressive as my mind contends, but Paul was an industrious child. His mother, an author of children’s books and weaver, must’ve looked out her upstairs window, proud of her son who worked so intently on his task. “Hey, Paul!” I yelled, already armed to the teeth.

THWOP! is the sound that a snowball makes when it hits someone in the face, or any other part of the body for that matter. My aim was deadly. Instead of getting to his feet and defending his fort, Paul slumped in the snow on his knees, his mouth an open, soundless abyss, eyes clenched shut before the wailing began. WAAAAH! He screamed. “Hey, Paul!” Another advanced warning like tracer fire – prepare yourself, it meant. My sister and I had built many forts and defended them with military precision, thwarting attempted coups with the dreaded ice ball launcher made from kitchen implements and discarded tools. Paul sat rocking, red-faced, and put up no defense. As a result, I unleashed a barrage of heavily packed snowballs. THWOP, THWOP, THWOP.

“WAAAH! STOP!”  Paul’s crying broke the stillness of the morning. I did an impressive imitation of Paul later for several friends. Why didn’t he defend himself? I was, after all, a sprig of a girl and only a couple of years older than he was. Still, there he sat, bawling, red-faced, covered in snow.  The upstairs window opened and out popped Paul’s mother, all salt and pepper hair and meaty lips. “Stop throwing snowballs right now!” Down went the window.  My hands were heavy in red mittens speckled with ice balls. I want to say I walked away, went inside and drank hot chocolate, or even helped Paul to his feet. The truth, though, is that I trampled his snow fort, kicking down the walls he had so carefully constructed, making his fort into an uneven mess of bumps and piles. “Don’t!” he kept repeating, pulling at my parka with clenched teeth and hands. Oh, but I did.

His mother later came over and talked quietly in the kitchen with my mother over coffee. Paul stopped standing at the screen door on weekends.  None of the neighborhood kids played with him after that. His was a house to be avoided, and he’d look out from behind the front window as we passed on our way to the Davidsons or the Springfields. Take your medicine, Paul.

Posted in Diet, education | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

Half and Half

Half and Half

Seven years ago my otherwise obedient body rejected half and half, full-on cream, ice cream, cheese and all its delectable incarnations. My calm stomach now hosted a storm of vitriol, refusing, anymore, to process lactose, up in arms at a sip of milk or a dollop of cream cheese. The protesting hordes inside, outraged in red headbands and tossing Molotov cocktails, rejected all bovine products outright. They overran all gastric functions with complete disregard for palate consequences.  Dairy was not only thrown out, but positively overthrown. Under such a dictatorial regime, my weight dropped precipitously.  I would occasionally try to scale the barbed wire, lamenting this oppressive, gaping maw in my diet until, at last, acceptance set in.  I had to make the best of this shift in power, to concoct a replacement for cheesecake and flan. I was now “soy girl,” the special order Sally tying up waiters with the importance of leaving dairy products off of my plate. I wanted to tell them about how difficult it was to live under such procrustean dictates, but in the end could only watch him lower his eyes to the pad, writing god knows what. The little flavored creamers (vanilla, caramel, mocha) disappeared from my life, relegated to kitchen counters of free people.  Cinnamon and honey really weren’t so bad, I told myself, watching another heavily plutocratic friend selfishly bedeck her latte with whipped cream. Capitalist pig, I scoffed.  I watched the hedonistic, free-loving bovine people gobble pizza, the melted cheese forming long, greasy ropes. Mine was scraped clean, streamlined to its most essential parts. While pizza was no longer a decadent indulgence, I would survive. Garlic naan with veggies, hummus, guacamole became staples in my Spartan kitchen. They are good enough! I cried. You westerners and your selfish cheese will ruin this nation! Somewhere in the primeval mist of my heritage, cows had not been available. My ancestors who had spawned the stomach mob, had most likely subsisted on wild game, nuts, and berries. They had not been the sedentary, wealthy, fat farmers able to care for and utilize bovines. They had probably been wild, nomadic hunter-gatherers who gnawed at bison ribs and stared at the back of the cave wall, creating elaborate fire-shadow pantomimes for entertainment and whose kids went to public school. I soon discovered that weight training could build what had been lost in the coup, and that a high-protein diet creates muscle, not fat. I became again the huntress, increasing weight on my bench bar, noticing the pronounced, primitive muscles emerge as I followed the timeless protocol of those Germanic barbarian predecessors who had voices in my DNA. While I still experience a regretful pang walking past Stone Cold Creamery, the grunts and gestures of my shadowy Neanderthal ancestors is enough to keep my hands off of the ice cream cone. If you can’t beat ‘em, join ‘em

Posted in Diet | Tagged | Leave a comment

Yes, Jose, There is Such a Thing as Free Lunch

As I and thousands of my dedicated brethren on the front lines, the public school teachers across our nation, are joining the ranks of the unemployed, our young charges complain about the quality of their breakfast burritos. I hear the disgruntled comments daily – the eggs are too runny, the bacon not crisp enough. The federal government provides my students, and more than 80% of all public school students in Tucson, with free breakfast and lunch. A parent enrolling her children in public school here is not required to provide proof of income, or citizenship, to qualify for this generous program – all she must do is request that her child be provided with free breakfast and lunch. In addition, breakfast is also served in public school cafeterias all summer, so children stop in, pick up an enormous sack meal including milk, juice, entree, dessert, and chips, and go on their merry way. Several years ago, private vendors were given access to public schools and steadily populated already overcrowded hallways with vending machines offering cookies, candy bars, chips, soda, and now (wait for it) ice cream treats. Students are often arrive tardy, still licking the wrappers. Their old desks groan in protest as a new generation of obese youth demands yet another year of service. The lateniks arrive, wiping chocolate and ice cream off their iphones, in $200 Air Jordans and designer couture. Meanwhile, I haven’t bought new clothes for a series of job interviews because I know I won’t be receiving free lunch after my layoff. I won’t, in fact, be receiving utility and water bill assistance either, like those targeted in the schoolwide flyer I was asked to distribute to my students. The flyer was aimed at families needing assistance, and it implied that if one is already on food stamps and section 8 housing, one’s electric and water bill can be covered by the federal government as well. I live in a small house in what is considered a bad neighborhood, and haven’t had a cost of living raise in four years. My clothes are old and worn, and I can’t afford an iphone, let alone designer tennis shoes. I am not, however, a victim of vending machine villains, so I won’t be a recipient of the settlement from the class action lawsuit that the free-lunch-Joses will be filing when they start losing limbs to diabetes due to the negligence of the public school system. I couldn’t afford to eat so much if I wanted to.

Posted in education, politics | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Hello world!

Small town girl glibly gabbing about nonsense and other matters of importance

Posted in Diet | Tagged | Leave a comment